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Choosing Your Weapon
People want there to be a perfect weapon. This is, however, not the case. It is frequently the case that what works for one person will not work for another. Similarly, there is more to choosing a weapon than just what does the most damage. Finding the right weapon for the right situation can be as simple as answering the question: what weapon is the most appropriate for the situation and what weapon does the operator know how to use? Of course, sometimes it is more complicated than even that. This article will examine a number of ways for people to choose the right weapon, no matter what they think may be the case. Frequently, simple postulates will cause arguments, but some of the most common debates come from one individual attempting to make a claim that there is a solution or a device that will always work for every person in every situation. Naturally, this causes other people to suggest that this person is wrong and that, in fact, there is another device that is perfect for everyone and everything. Of course, they are all mistaken. This isn't to imply that there is an answer that everyone has somehow missed and there is another device that works where the others fail. For every situation and for every individual, there are as many devices that can be used to find the right solution. In this case we are speaking of weapons. When searching for the right weapon, one must consider a number of things:
For now, let us consider just these 7 characteristics, but let us examine these one at a time: Consider this situation: you are surrounded by zombies, you see an escape possible, but there are about five zombies between you and this escape. You pull out your trusty [insert weapon of choice] and begin to fight your way through the hoard. When you finally get through them, you toss the [weapon] into its [carrying case] – now imagine that this [weapon] is a 20-lb sledge, and imagine what it would be like to try and run away with this 20-lb sledge bouncing on your back. Similarly, consider a shotgun with about 50 shells, a makeshift polearm of some sort, or even just a chunk of steel pipe. One must think about not only the weight of the weapon, but also the size of the weapon – all these things together refer to the ease of carry of a weapon. A weapon must also be able to survive being bashed or poked against or through human bone (a rather sturdy substance) many times. It must also stand up to the test of time in a harsh environment, in other words, it will get wet, it will have to travel long distances, it will get dropped and thrown and through it all it will have to mainain its ability to do its job. There will be times that it will get broken or damaged, this is inevitable, but in these cases, this weapon must be able to be repaired. Most weapons should provide this opportunity, but if the weapon is not sturdy or is appropriately easy to repair (in other words, it is either easy to fix or sturdy or both) then it is not a weapon you should be considering. There are times when you may be fifty feet or more away from a zombie and thinking “darn, I wish I had something to hit it with without getting closer.” Conversely, there may be times that you will be surrounded by zombies and thinking “DARN, I WISH I HAD SOMETHING THAT WORKED BETTER WHEN THEY’RE THIS CLOSE!!” This is what I mean by area of attack – the distance, or area, at which the weapon would be most effective. You will want to choose a weapon that allows for maximum use of a multitude of area – particularly, you will want a weapon that can be used easily to attack zombies at a distance (like a polearm or spear) but also can be used when you have your back to the wall (if you could be so lucky) and need a weapon that can deal with the the zombies at close proximity. To create the best type of weapon, you may have to use two different weapons, but the idea still remains – how can you combine weapons for the best combination of ranges possible. I’ll do my best to keep this from sounding like Dungeons and Dragons (although a shotgun +2 would hypothetically be very nice to have), but damage is an important thing to think about. The sort of damage that an arrow can do is much different than the damage that a 20-lb. sledge hammer can do. You must choose a weapon that does the sort of damage that you are looking for, here are the standard types of weapons. Projectiles will do little damage individually, but can reach their target at much greater speeds not to mention the fact that they can be used at a good distance, thus removing yourself from immediate danger. A blunt weapon will crush things if enough force is applied, though the force required for a blunt weapon is generally greater to overcome the large area that it does damage over. Piercing objects, like spears and arrows, can much more easily pierce through armor and bone than the crushing weapons but will do damage over a much smaller area. Cutting weapons, like knives and swords, are a good combination of piercing and crushing weapons as far as the ratio of force required for the damage done, but the damage is not a destructive one so much as a severing one. With cutting weapons, one must be more skilled to do good damage and the weapon must be designed correctly. If one is familiar with either the katana or the flint weapons, their effectiveness comes from the same trick – serrated edges – and the damage done comes from continuous motion. The trick is to choose the correct damage type for the weakness of the target. Again, trying to skip any “Dungeons & Dragons” references, but this is yet another important thing to think about. As mentioned in the last section, blades can do great damage if used correctly, but can simply be dnagerous if the wielder doesn’t know how to use one. Similarly, while a crushing weapon could do the most amount of damage if wielded correctly, the chances of wielding one of these weapons correctly is farely rare and becomes exponentially more difficult the weaker the wielder of the weapon is. Conversely, a sling (a strip of leather held at both ends with a rock in the middle and swung over the head and released to send the rock flying) requires very little strength but a high amount of dexterity, making it more appropriate for those of a slight frame. While a sling does nowhere near the amount of damage that a twenty-pound-seldge would do, someone who cannot efficiently wield a sledge would put themselves in more danger if they tried to fight with it. Be aware of your own strength and be aware of what you can handle safely and confidently on your own. This does not apply, for the most part, to melee weapons, but the next thing to be thinking about is availability of ammunition. Everyone’s going to automatically think: “A shotgun is the ideal zombie weapon.” In the short term the shotgun is a very good weapon at close range, but as soon as it runs out of ammo, the shotgun is going to be reduced to a rather unwieldly club. Firearms are great weapons, but finding a cache of rifle or shotgun shells large enough to sustain long-term weapon usage (daily use over the course of many years) is going to be rare. Thus, firearms are good for isolated use, as long as the ammunition lasts. Archery has its advantages in this regard – materials for arrows/bolts are readily available and can be constructed (given some practice time) with some efficiency. For this reason, it is advisable to have materials around to reshell bullets (take the old casings, add cap, powder and bullet), though there may be an argument here for bringing back the black powder gun. As in the previous cases, let us think about the rebound of the following weapons: shotgun, bow-and-arrows, and the 20-lb sledge. The speed of rebound refers to the speed with which the user can get ready to use it again. This refers both to the time of reload of a ranged weapon, but also it refers to the time it takes to recover from the swing of a melee weapon. Thus, in the case of a shotgun, the speed of rebound would be the average of the time it takes both to cock the shotgun as well as to reload the shotgun after firing all of the available bullets. Similarly, with the bow-and-arrow, the speed of rebound refers to the speed it takes to retrieve another arrow, knock it, and draw back the string to fire. The speed of rebound for the 20-lb sledge would be the time it takes to swing the sledge, lift the sledge, center yourself and be ready to swing again. Unscientifically, I would rate these all about the same in regards to the speed of rebound because the speed advantage of the shotgun initially loses its advantage when one has fired all the shots, the bow-and-arrows are relatively slow but consistant, and the 20-lb sledge allows one to swing rather fast but it takes a long time to recover from the swing. The important thing to recognize about choosing a weapon is this: there is no perfect weapon. This list is as complete as most people will need, however, for simplicities sake, this all comes down to two simple things: how well can the person use the weapon, and how appropriate is this weapon for the given situation. Find the compromise between these two things and you will be successful with whatever you choose. So next time you hear the distant scratchings and moanings of our undead enemies, think before you decide to stock up simply on the explosives. Every weapon has its place, and every person has his/her weapon – choose them wisely. Remember, the aim is to most effectively remove the zombies heads while keeping your own. |
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shotguns require LARGE heavy shells,your carrying large quantites is fairly limited ..that said,a twelve gauge is a GREAT means with which to stop them COLD...er,um quickly
their already "cold"
some of the best technology is OLD technology....
a FIRE AXE,isnt all that divergent from a maul...
an AXE,is always a great weapon no matter WHAT time period your speaking of...
a SPEAR isnt doing squat against a thing with no blood pressure....
now a LONG Sword,or even a Machete wil do great lopping of limbs and removing effectiveness,while keeping them out of grappling,and hand on you distance.
NEVER,EVER ALLOW ANYTHING TO GET IN CONTACT,ESPECIALLY IF PAIN ISNT FELT
I'd like to add a few notations to this bit of ideas being thought out..
1. Ease of Carry
in this order...
PISTOL(SMALL CALIBER,OR SMALL FRAME)
PISTOL(LARGE FRAME...MANY CALIBERS)BOTH OF THESE ARE A FAIRLY FLAT PACKAGE
REVOLVER(LARGE FRAME,LARGE CALIBER...TO VERY LARGE CALIBER)
REVOLVER(SMALL FRAME,MANY CALIBERS TO CHOOSE FROM)
CARBINE(BOLT,SEMI OR LEVER ACTION) BUT ABBREVIATED DIMENSIONS
RIFLE(MANY CALIBERS TO CHOSE FROM,SLIMMER AND SMALLER ACTIONS THEN SHOTGUN)
SHOTGUN(MANY TYPES,BUT FOR SHEER EASE OF OPERATION AND RELIABILITY,STICK WITH A PUMP,OR DOUBLE BARREL...EXTERNAL HAMMER MODELS ONLY!!!)
2. Sturdiness & Repairability
PISTOLS(CHANGE ACTION SPRINGS OFTEN,AND KEEP CLEAN....MOST TIMES WONT MESS UP,BUT PARTS NEEDED THAT ARE MODEL SPECIFIC)
REVOLVERS(ARE MORE RELIABLE THEN PISTOLS,BUT TAKE LONGER TO RELOAD)
RIFLES(MADE IN MILITARY ACTION TYPES ARE VERY EASY TO MAINTAIN,PARTS ARE VERY ACCESSABLE/AVAILABLE
CIVILIAN STYLE ISNT THE EASIEST TO MAINTAIN,AND PARTS ARE HARDER TO COME BY)
SHOTGUNS(BY AND LARGE DONT MESS UP,THEY ARENT VERY HARSHLY STRESSED BY THE LOW POWERED SHOT SHELLS...BUT,THEY WILL <<> IF THE MUZZLE IS BLOCKED BY DIRT,MUD,OR ACCIDENTAL IMMERSION IN WATER,AND THEN FAILING TO EMPTY THE BORE
3. Area of Attack
PISTOL(AMPLY DONE UNTIL AMMO RUNS LOW)
REVOLVER (GIVES UP RATE OF FIRE FOR THE RELIABLITY,THEY SIMPLY ALWAYS GO BANG)
RIFLE(HAS BETTER STAND OFF AND LONGER RANGE,THEREBY KEEPING THEM FURTHER AWAY FROM YOU,YOU CAN ENGAGE THEM FURTHER AWAY)
SHOTGUN(WAS DISTINCTLY HATED BY THE GERMANS IN WW1,THEY REFERRED TO IT AS THE 'DEVILS PUSHBROOM',FOR IT'S ABILITY TO BRUSH THEIR ATTACKS ASIDE ,IT IS A FORMITABLE CLOSE UP WEAPON,WHO'SE USAGE AND WARRENTABILITY FOR EFFECTIVENESS TAILS OFF RAPIDLY,WITH ANY DISTANCE FURTHER THEN 125YARDS)
4. Damage Type
PISTOL(NEEDS TO BE WITHIN EFFECTIVE RANGE,AND SHOT PLACEMENT IS MANDATORY)
REVOLVER(SHARES THE SIMILAR TRAITS WITH THE PISTOL...YOU NEED TO HEADSHOT AT LEAST)
RIFLE(IS A VERY EFFECTIVE WEAPON,AND IS MORE FORGIVING FOR LACKLUSTER MARKSMANSHIP)
SHOTGUNS(AGAINST PUBLIC OPINION..IT ISNT THE 'CONE OF EFFECTIVE DEATHBRINGING'...THEY NEED TO BE AIMED JUST AS A PISTOL OR A RIFLE NEEDS TO BE.
BUT,IT WILL PUT MORE 'BULLETS' INTO THE ZONE YOU HAVE IT AIMED INTO,UP TO AND INCLUDING SHEARING OFF NECKS,ARMS AND LEGS AT VERY CLOSE RANGE)
5. Skill & Strength Requirements
PISTOL/REVOLVER(REQUIRES NO REAL STRENGTH,OTHER THEN RACKING THE ACTION OF A PISTOL TO LOAD THE FIRST SHOT..SOME WOMEN HAVE NOT ENOUGH GRIP/UPPER BODY STRENGTH TO DO THIS EASILY)
RIFLE(RECOIL OF SOME CARTRIDGES IS A HARSH MISTRESS,YOU NEED MORE POWER,YOU HAVE MORE RECOIL...SOME PEOPLE SLIGHT OF BUILD PAY THE PIPER)
6. Availability of Ammunition
PISTOL/REVOLVER AMMO IS FOUND MOST EVERYWHERE
RIFLE AMMO(CAN BE CALIBER SPECIFIC,TO IT'S EASE IN CACHED/RELIABLE SOURCES)
SHOTGUN(CAN BE FOUND IN GREAT QUANTITES,IN MOSTLY 12 GAUGE..OTHER GUAGES ARENT AS EASILY FOUND,WITH THE EXCEPTION OF TWENTY GAUGE...IT'S THE SECOND MOST POPULAR GAUGE IN THIS COUNTRY.)
7. Speed of Rebound
I'M ASSUMING THIS TO MEAN RELOAD SPEED,SO IN THIS ORDER
PISTOL
RIFLE(MILITARY CALIBERS SPECIFICALLY,ARE DESIGNED FOR LARGE VOLUMES OF FIRE..<<<>>)
SHOTGUN
REVOLVER
You have some good notes, but you left off melee weapons from your list. That's why I use the term "rebound" instead of "reload" because this is really a matter of how fast can it fire/swing, how long does it take to recover from a shot/swing, and if necessary, how long does it take to reload.
An ideal weapon would be the standard us military service rifle, the M16a2 or it's newer variant the M-4.It's designed to be easily mastered by any idiot recruit,can have an attached bayonet,or an M-203 single shot 40 MM grenade launcher with a variety of rounds from high explosive to parachute flares.The recoil is very minimal,slightly more than a CO2 powered air rifle.Ammo and spare parts would be more readily available than foreign made military rifles such as the AK and most likely could be found around any Regular or Guard base.It was also designed for hand to hand combat, as in clubbing people in the head if such a need should arise.It carries a 30 round mag(larger available commercially),fires in single shot or 3 round burst,and with practice head shots at 200 yards are no problem.
Yes an M4 or M16a2 would be useful but what about ammo availability? Good luck going down to the local walmart and picking up a few Thousand rounds of .223/5.56 NATO military only ammo. Even if you raided your local Army surplus or National Gaurd Armory you would quickly run out of ammo- esspecially if you never used one before as you would be throwing away shots like they were rocks instead of bullets.
My weapon of choice would be a MP5-A5 with extendable stock. As this SMG is rated to use ammo anywhere from 9-mm to 40 caliber pistol ammo so its fairly common. Between 20-31 shots per mag. with minimal recoil per shot. The added stock allows for greater accuracy when tightened against the shoulder. It comes factory standard with either single-shot, 3-round burst or full auto. The iron sights are accurate to about 75-100 yards if you know how to use it. A 9-mm round to the forehead will stop any non-mutated zombie in one shot. As a backup weapon my preference would be to use an M1911-A1 if possible but they arent that common anymore. .45 caliber ammo is almost as common as 9-mm but with only the 7-8 shots it isnt that practicle until your other weapons run dry. The short range of 20-35 yards also makes it less than ideal for open area combat. Multiple combat knives with 1 or 2 larger bladed weapons, preferably a longsword, shortsword or machete, would be my choice for the close-quarters combat with the shambling undead. They all have the range and capabilites nessecary to halting and/or "vorpaling" any zombie that gets close and your out of bullets.
Code Purple: In case of zombie attack your seat can be used as a shotgun: shells in other cushion.
Have to be a crowbar.Can be light to carry,has a blunt side for hitting and the hook can be used for opening doors and messing up a zombies head.
Its a multi use weapon that doesnt get blunt or run out of ammo. Obviously its also a last resort weapon as a zombie within reach to use it is too close!
I would have to choose in an ideal world a shotgun. Looking at it practicaly its the easyist gun to get hold of in the UK (automatics and pistols are illegal,with good reason).But they have down sides of course,only two barrels,heavy to carry and so is the ammo.Also I know how to use one.
I agree that a shotgun and a conventional blunt weapon would be a wise choice being shotgun shells or even INSERTment guns can be found in a wal-mart or other area. this weapon also has has a draw back as far as how easy it is to reload while in a tight spot leading to the use of the blunt object, the blunt weapon of choice would most likely be something metal rather than your standard issue bat of 2x4 thos would break after only a few zombie brain fiestas A pipe would be a good choice if it bends or breaks it still retains a use just its effective rape radius is smaller
The shotgun would be a goo idea, but I would have to go with something sharp rather than something blunt. based on availability, some form of buck knife, hunting knife, fillet knife, or switchblade would be preferable over your run of the mill, found-at-the-mall katana. the shotgun just gives good spreadablility, while said sharp instrument can be used to poke at attacking zombies heads, or cut off reaching and rotting limbs.